Tretinoin: carboxylic acid form of Vitamin A - also know as trans retinoic acid or ATRA- used in the treatment of acne vulgaris and keratosis pilaris Is found in Aberele, Airol, Renova, Retin-A, Retino A, Refissa, ReTrieve, Stieva A. Was developed by Dr. James Fulton and Dr. Kligman in 1969. When used dryness and increase sensitivity to sunlight and will experience redness, scaling, itching and burning. This product increases the risk of sunburn and causes thinning of the skin, so no waxing only tweezing or threading recommended (5 day to three months) Mitochondrial: is DNA converting chemical energy form food into a form the cell understand (ATP)
L-ascorbic acid. The only form of vitamin C that is readily accepted by the skin is L-ascorbic acid. A variety of vitamin C esters, such as ascorbyl palmitate, also provide antioxidant benefits, but they do not stimulate collagen production or provide the anti-aging benefits that L-ascorbic acid provides. As an ancillary antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and UV-protective ingredient, L-ascorbic acid is an exceptional choice for virtually all skin types and conditions, especially those that present for the aging client.2 Ideally, products with L-ascorbic acid should be applied during the client’s morning daily care routine to maximize antioxidant and UV-protective benefits. L-ascorbic acid. The only form of vitamin C that is readily accepted by the skin is L-ascorbic acid. A variety of vitamin C esters, such as ascorbyl palmitate, also provide antioxidant benefits, but they do not stimulate collagen production or provide the anti-aging benefits that L-ascorbic acid provides. As an ancillary antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and UV-protective ingredient, L-ascorbic acid is an exceptional choice for virtually all skin types and conditions, especially those that present for the aging client.2 Ideally, products with L-ascorbic acid should be applied during the client’s morning daily care routine to maximize antioxidant and UV-protective benefits. Peptides. Peptides, like retinoids, are a larger family of ingredients that perform specific functions within the skin. Three specific types of peptides have proven results and are used widely in anti-aging products: neurotransmitter-affecting peptides, carrier peptides and signaling peptides. Neurotransmitter-affecting peptides interfere with specific messages being sent from one neuron to the next. This message could be to produce collagen or minimize repetitive facial expressions. Since peptides are found in nearly every living tissue, they can be quite effective when introduced into an aging client’s routine. Acetyl hexapeptide-8, for example, is one commonly used neurotransmitting peptide that helps to minimize facial expressions that can lead to wrinkling. Copper peptides are the most common and most researched carrier peptide. They have been shown to increase collagen, glycosaminoglycan (GAG) and protein production.4 Lastly, signaling peptides such as palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tripeptide-38 are frequently used in anti-aging products. These initiate certain responses in the skin, such as collagen deposition or dermal fibroblast enhancement. Like many ingredients, peptides must be applied to the skin twice daily for the most beneficial outcomes. Clients should be encouraged to use any peptide-containing anti-aging product both in the morning and evening. Stem cell extracts. Stem cell extracts are generally used to replenish the skin as it undergoes wound repair in the basal layer.5 Plant-derived stem cells are ideal because they protect skin stem cells from UV-induced damage, act as anti-inflammatory agents, and have potent antioxidant capabilities. Their purpose in an anti-aging cosmeceutical is to protect skin, allowing for the regeneration of healthy cells. The most studied plant-derived stem cell extracts include lilac leaf stem cell extract, grapefruit stem cell extract and orange stem cell extract, which as noted, provide antioxidant protection
AGING/REPAIR / PEPTIDES? Matrixyl™ (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4) – Helps stimulate collagen synthesis and elastin. The action is very similar to retinol without the irritation.
Matrixyl™ Synthe 6 (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38) – Evens out skin, relieves and smoothes wrinkles by stimulating constituents of skin matrix and dermal-epidermal junction (i.e. collagen I, II, IV, fibronectin, hyaluronic acid, and laminin 5)
Eyeliss™ (Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone and Dipeptide-2 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7) – Hesperidin methyl chalcone is a bioflavonoid that helps to decrease capillary permeability thus reducing fluid deposition and puffiness. Dipeptide Valyl-Tryptophane improves lymphatic circulation to promote drainage of under-eye fluid. Lipopeptide Pal-GQPR improves firmness and elasticity
Haloxyl® (Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7) – Two peptides work in conjunction to improve firmness and tone of the eye area. Chrysin and N-hydroxysuccinimide stimulate the clearance of deposited blood pigments and solubilize iron for elimination respectively, resulting in the reduction of dark circles
Argireline® (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) – A peptide alternative to botox that attenuates muscle contraction preventing the formation of fine lines and wrinkles
Snap 8 (Acetyl Octapeptide-3) – Reduces depth of wrinkles caused by contraction of muscles of facial expression
Inyline® (Acetyl Hexapeptide-30) – Reduces depth of wrinkles caused by contraction of muscles of facial expression
dGlyage® (Tripeptide 9) – Reduces DNA damage resulting from fenton reaction products and reduces metal-mediated A.G.E. formation
Vilastene™ (Tripeptide-10) – Inhibits mallard reaction and reduces A.G.E.s
Progeline™ (Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2) – Reduces progerin synthesis, MMP and elastase inhibitor, increases syndecan, contracts collagen to reduce signs of aging including sagging and wrinkles
Thymulen® 4 (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2) – Biomimetic of thymopoietin; boosts skin regeneration and reinforces cutaneous immune defenses
Chronocyclin® (Glutamylamidoethyl Imidazole) – Anti-aging, enhances expression of circadian genes, optimizes cell defenses and renewal activities, and Vitamin D transformation
L-Carnosine - Di-peptide that has anti-glycation properties
Ronacare® Cyclopeptide-5 - A novel cyclopeptide binds integrins and increases signaling for extracellular matrix production and crosstalk between skin cells. This results in increased tensil and compressive strength, elasticity, and firmness for the skin. Additionally, wrinkles are reduced and the skin is smoothed and crosstalk between skin cells. This results in increased tensil and compressive strength, elasticity, and firmness for the skin. Additionally, wrinkles are reduced and the skin is smoothed